Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Beas Kund- A Hidden Valley in Heaven

This report is not written to present you with a technical account of the trek but to tell you of my experience of the first trek which I undertook to Beas kund.



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I discovered a new world with it's own challenges. It made me realize the temporaries of the matters that surround us in daily life. It brought me closer to God and to be able to appreciate His nature and plans for human life. Furthermore it made me realize my own vulnerabilities and strengths. In fact I can say that if you think yourself to be strong and unconquerable, come to the mountains!
My experience of Beas Kund started with Sammy's idea of taking a trek during a conversation. Getting along with an experienced climber seemed a good idea for a novice like me. So we gathered together as a team of 5 (Samuel, Gurpreet, Gurvinder - the Kinnar Kailash Circuit Team and the two of us - Anjali my wife, and I.)
We reached Solang Nalla in the noon with a cloudy weather awaiting us. Gurvinder was enthusiastic enough to suggest pitching our tents at Solang only. However we checked in at a local inn as it had rained in Solang and the locals were expecting a bad weather. Sammy took us out to the surrounding lush ski slopes for an initial tuning up of our bodies. By evening the weather had worsened and downpour started and our journey seemed to be in jeopardy. My body also gave it's first signal of being unable to cope in Solang by two episodes of dizziness.

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By night the reports came that a bridge had been washed away by the river turbulence and it would not be possible to go beyond Dhundi, the site of first camp. The porters too were reluctant to accompany us. We slept that night with both a dampened weather and dampened hearts. Gurpreet was in a bad mood and depressed at the turn of events or more to say the weather, and as we learnt later Gurvinder also had his share of a nightmare that night.
However the morning greeted us with a sunny cheer and we decided to proceed with our original plan of hitting Dhundi and decide on our further course as per the situation at the site. We started at 8.30 am, carrying our own loads, and reached Dhundi comfortably by 12.30 pm through the mud and marsh of the road project being undertaken. Four kilometers from Solang we had tea at a local tea stall built for the construction workers. The owner Sohanlal served us tea and very enthusiastically told us mythical stories about the Beaskund.At Dhundi we pitched our tents next to the river in an area vacated be shepherds as was evident by the makeshift kitchen of slate stones. Some distance away we could see the white tiled establishment of the SASE ( Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment).

That afternoon a herd of buffaloes were returning back to lower terrain. We were distracted by shouts and cries coming from downstream. As we watched from our posts we saw a young calf being washed away by the currents of the river we had just crossed. The calf was eventually saved but the tactical maneuvering by the shepherds and the struggles of life encountering death in its face were to leave an indelible mark in our hearts. The team enthusiastically prepared lunch of parathas while I had to lie inside when my body gave a second signal of giving up (probably due to exposure) as I had lightened my clothing out of zeal. Later that evening I had severe nausea and headache a manifestation of mountain sickness, but fortunately it was the last episode to come as my body was slowly acclimatizing.
Next morning after a light breakfast of cold rice pudding we started for Bakkar-thach. This was a tough leg as the river was partially flooded and we had to walk barefoot across freezing waters. The route also became steeper and partially disrupted due to the rains. The bridge reported to be broken was rebuilt by the returning shepherds, as was our expectation. It was a row of small wood laid upon two parallel logs. We reached Bakkar- thach in about three and a half hours along with a group of advanced mountaineering course students. We had to struggle to find a camping place because the main area was already occupied by a Students training course. Bakkar- thach (meaning the Goat Pasture in local language) is a beautiful place surrounded by snow-capped mountains on one side and green hills on another side serving as pastures. We could clearly see the famous peaks of Pir Panjal range - the Hanuman Tibba, the Seven Sisters, Friendship Peak and Laddak Peak. This is also the place used by mountaineering students for basic training. From our camps we could see students practicing on packed snow.
We had another sumptuous lunch by our culinary skilled members (Gurpreet, Gurvinder and Anjali). The warm sun at Bakkar thach removed all our apprehension and we could look forward to another better day. We started for Beas Kund the next day at around 9.30am. This was the toughest bit because of the sudden change in terrain. A moraine of large rocks, the way through which could only be discerned by Cairns placed by trekkers and shepherds, followed a steep slippery terrain of about 60 degrees. This place also bears strange marks on the rocks that seem to be fossilized remains of ancient ocean life that was once a submerged area. Sammy also showed us the rocks containing quartz. We crossed a crevasse with our hearts in our mouth. Soon we were descending into the sprawling valley of Beas Kund that presented a spectacular refreshing sight to our weary bodies. This valley must have been the bed of the river Beas now reduced in flow as was evident from the sandy terrain of the valley and the myriad streams in which the river had been split. We pitched our tents in almost the center of the valley at around 13.00 pm along the bank of a stream. All we could see was a shelter of some shepherds who came to higher altitudes to graze their goats and sheep and wild strawberries plants growing in abundance all over. The serenity of the valley broken only by the sound of the streams and falls was enough to take away the tire of the last three days. This place is worth spending four to five days away from the complexities of civilized life. After a hasty lunch we went to see Beas Kund that was around one kilometer from our camp. This is a small sized pool with a yet unexplored depth fed by a waterfall. The other end of the pool opens into a small stream considered to be the starting of the river Beas. Because of its peculiar location the pool has many beliefs and stories associated with it.
Returning to our camps we were joined by flocks of sheep descending from the high pastures. Shepherds bring their sheep for two months in a year to this area to improve the quality of yield. Intrigued by this fact I tried to look into the vegetation and found that this place has got a special type of grass with soft and rounded blades that I did not see in the lower areas of Solang. We just made it in time to our camp as a dense fog soon surrounded us with visibility reduced to only a metre. The weather is much more unpredictable in this area. The fog that took us unaware stayed for a half hour and then cleared away as fast as it had descended. Sammy's experience came handy in this place and by night he decided that we pack up next morning as the weather did not look good. The morning came with the rains and we prepared to leave as soon as was feasible.


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The drizzle stopped at around 7.20 am and we started off. However we could see the return path enclosed in deep fog. Soon after, the drizzling started again but we decided to continue as the weather was expected to turn worse. We had expected to stop midway and to pitch our tent for rest. However that seemed unwise, as the weather grew ominous. We continued on our journey and decided to hit back Solang the same day somehow. During this journey I came to realize the endurance built inside the human body and was amazed to see my own performance. Not only we finished our return journey in one stretch but we also went back through the same slopes that we thought was impossible to descend again. All I knew was the continuous work my legs did as my body fought with the cold and rain with the heat it produced.
I cannot imagine how we all gathered the strength to walk the slippery rocks, loose scree and muddy goat tracks down slope with drenched tents, rucksack and clothing. The trip was not void of funny incidents as we slipped one after the other. The first noticeable fall was of Anjali but her sadness was soon cured by Gurpreet's secret confession that he had already accomplished the feat twice! All in all he had seven falls as the poor fellow was carrying the largest tent. The cheerful spirit maintained by the team members and the Sammy's constant motivation and push kept our feet moving. Finally after walking for six and a half hours in the incessant rain we crossed the now churning Beas a last time and reached Sohanlal's tea stall where we relished two rounds of hot tea. However we soon realized that our bodies were shivering as the rest had made us realize the harsh weather around us.

We reached Solang in another forty-five minutes to finally enter the hotel and enjoy a hot relaxing bath. The one pair of clothing we had left behind for our trip in Manali came handy, as water had percolated through our rucksacks completely. It was fun to realize that even the locals would not believe that we had accomplished it in this rough weather.We returned back to our homes the next day to find that the smooth roads had given way to landslides and dangerous potholes throughout the way. The rains remained with us throughout the drive back home and even till the next day. It gave us much relief to realize that we had returned well in time to get one extra day to relax in our homes. And while the exhaustion of the days was soon washed away their footprints remained!
NOTE: Beas Kund can be used as camping, High altitude camping, Climbing open peaks ( You do not have to have permission to climb ) and some hardcore open routes for climbing are also there

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

PINDARI GLACIER -A TREKKING REPORT

We had heard a lot about the scenic beauty of this 100 km trek, especially the Zero Point where the Glacier melts and the Pindari River originates.

Many go to the Himalayas in search of peace and solace. We accepted the challenge thrown by its mighty peaks and valleys in the lap of the wonderful nature.

Bharat and I reached Delhi on the 17th September and boarded the night train, Ranikhet Express to Kathgodam where we met out team mate Mr.Varun from Delhi. We were received by www.himadventures.net team- Mr.Satnam our Guides from Himadventures International Tours and Trades.

Drive from Kathgodam station to Bagheswar was a bit tiring. We had our breakfast in Almora and then drove straight to Bagheswar. Samuel kept entertaining us with his nonstop chatting about his various trekking adventures and at one stage he realized that he was just yakking to himself as we all went off to sleep.

We reached Bagheswar around 3 p.m.We purchased our ration some Fresh Lokies, vegetables, pure desi Ghee and some kerosene. We also picked a dozens of apples as I enjoy eating them. It makes my Morning natures call very enjoyable, unlike Bharat who preferred some Hamdard Ka Isabghol.

We left for Song and all of us were excited that we decided to start our 1st leg of 2 hours of trek the same day. Song is the last place on this trip with some shops. Its on the banks of Revati Ganga River. We had to walk up for about 3 kms to Loherkhet. This place is at a height of 5800 feet above sea level. This was like acclimatization walk to get us all in a mood of the Hike.

We reached Loherkhet by about 6 p.m and pitched our tents. Satnam, our official cook cum Guide started pumping the stove and was ready with the dinner by 8 p.m. Food was light and very tasty. After dinner we started gazing at the stars. Varun showed us the Planet Mars. We also saw one American spy satellite which was moving from South to North.

It wasn’t cold in the tent as we had tucked ourselves inside our sleeping bags. The tent was just enough for three of us to sleep. We also had to keep our 3 rug sacks and our dirty shoes zipped inside. I did feel suffocated for sometime. Bharat would insist to change to his pyjamas and then go to sleep. Each of us snoring loudly and the sound was like a tranquilizer, which put us all to sleep.

We were up early morning and went around hunting for a safe place with our toilet paper rolls and a mug of water. Later we had a cool smooth shave, the last shave during this trip. After we finished our breakfast we set out for our 11 kms trek to Dhakuri.

We walked with our walking sticks through vast open spaces, land slide trails and water streams. There was a steep climb of about 2000 feet. The vegetation changed from pines to thick forests and a large variety of trees. The heat in the afternoon made us all very tired and exhausted.

Often we sheltered under giant trees and walked through the forest on the gentle undulating hills and terraced slopes. We had some tea at a small dhaba and checked our body if there were any leeches.

We reached Dhakuri at about 2 p.m. in the afternoon. We managed to get some blue and black Pepsi and enjoyed the valley view sitting outside the dhaba. There was a small monument of dedicated trekkers who lost their lives on the expedition to Sunderdunga Glacier. We were so tired that we decided to take our bath I remember the gutsy attitude of Bharat who had his bath in his Birthday suit. Seeing him enjoying I also enjoyed bathing nude in open with a few birds and clouds watching me.

Dhakuri was very scenic and is situated in a valley and it is surrounded by thick forests on all sides and one could get fabulously the view of snow clad peaks of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.

We spent the night in the tent minus me, which I conveniently slept in a small room in the Dhaba. I made sure Bharat and Varun were comfortable in the tent.

The next day we were off for Diwali via Khati. It is along 19 km trek. Khati is 8 km walk from Dhakuri and is pretty downhill. From here the routes to Pindari, Sunderdunga Glacier separate.

We walked through the forest and through the openness of the hills the route was quite rustic. The weather started changing slowly. There was a chai shop in the route and we had some tea and biscuits. To our surprise we saw a lot of Poppy plants.

As we reached Khati we had some light snacks and left our excess baggage at a dhaba (Bharat not forgetting his pyjamas) because the ponies refused to go towards Diwali as the bridge at one point was broken. We took some local porters to carry our rug sacks and ration. Khati is the last village on this route. We found the people of Khati very warm.

From Khati one path leads to Diwali. It is a 11km walk through very difficult trails. At one point we had to walk through a lot of slush our feet and new Nike Trek Shoes had to sink in by 8 inches in water and slush. En route we saw a lot of waterfalls and streams. After about 5 km we crossed the bridge which was quite risky.

We walked through shaded forests with sunlight peeping in. We maneuvered our way across occasional treacherous landslide, and rickety log placed to cross a torrential stream, till we reached Diwali. We were completely exhausted when we reached Diwali. Everything ached.

Diwali is situated in between two valleys in very green surroundings. We could view the peaks with snow.

We checked in the KMVN Dak Bungalow. One small room where 5 of us spent the night. This was like one room cum kitchen cum changing room cum store room, one cot with broken legs all in a 10 x 10 room without any light. There was a water tap close by with a pidly stream of water. It was totally dark outside as it was cloudy. This ambiance made me feel very depressed. Furthermore I could not shift sides on the cot as I was sure that if I move a bit the cot would give way. The night looked very long.

The next morning we started our trek to Phurkia. It started to pour lightly. The Trek to Phurkia was for 5 km. Here is the greatest challenge of the trek. The trails washed away and badly damaged with the recent landslides. We had to cross through flooded streams. One wrong step on the loose stones... it is all a game of courage and balance. A slight off balance on the wet slippery stones and you are gone.

As we approach Phurkia the air starts becoming thin and we observed a sudden impact of high altitude and we are out of the forests and in the open with lot of big mountains and waterfalls around us.

We reached Phurkia at 2 p.m. It was getting chiller. As the tenting was risky and the KVMN huts were locked we were told by our guide that the kitchen was the best alternative to spend the night.

Luckily for us the watchman just then arrived and opened the rooms. We had an early dinner of Rice and dhal and planned to sleep early. We had to trek 7 km and at a much higher altitude for Zero point. We were up by 5 a.m. and were served hot soup and biscuits to increase our energy levels to climb.

The climb was very beautiful with the view of the magnificent peaks. There were numerous landslides throughout the way and had to cross a lot of cold water streams as which made our walk even more adventures. The scenery suddenly changed and the hues of the sky and the greens were extra rich.

In front of us we saw the pure white mass of Pindari Glacier located in between the peaks of Nanda Devi and Nandkot. It is 300 meters in width and 4 km in length. The valley is drained by the Pindari River that emerges from the Pindari glacier. It is a point where one can have an explicit view of the mighty Himalayas. It is like a place close to Heaven.

Download Pictures Of this Trek.
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari1.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari2.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari3.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari4.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari5.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari6.zip
http://www.himadventures.net/adventure/pindari7.zip

At 10 a.m. we finally reached the Zero point. We were greeted by Babaji who has built a lovely ashram. People there refer him as Pilot Baba. There were some solar panels fitted to charge some camera batteries. Babaji is from Orissa and lives there for 9 months. He goes very near the glacier every morning and evening to pray for 1 hour. We were surprised to see him in his basic clothing. We offered our prayers at Babaji’s ashram and rested for some time.

Here we met Mr. Mathew from Delhi camped there and was in-charge of the rescue operations of an American group of trekkers. And it was a coincidence that he was from the same St.Stephan’s college from where Bharat was. We had also met a guy from France who had cycled all the way to India.

We were all very hungry and our energy levels were in the pits as we just had some soup in the morning. Babaji was very kind enough to offer us food some hot poories and alu bhaji. The Alu bhaji tasted very different. It had some noodles and I think some Himalayan herbs…. Before leaving the Zero point we had some hot tea and we started our trek back to Diwali. Zero point was so beautiful that we left our heart back there.

After watching the Himalayas covered with snow and the sun light falling, it was like a snapshot we would never forget.

The trek back was a bit different the decent from zero looked easy but was very tough. The knees start aching .It was raining throughout and was very sultry. All of us tired we Walked at our own pace and used to meet each other after hours. At one point we saw our socks red with blood and realized that the leeches had stung us. It was a messy thing to pull them out.

After lunch at Khati, I walked 8 kms to Dhakuri all alone in the rain and met others only at Dhakuri. The 11 km trek to Loherkhet the next day was quite painful .The trails badly damaged and raining throughout .The calf muscles were like torn.

From Loherkhet we reached Song and hired a jeep for Nainital.Varun had left for the Kathgodam station to catch their night train for Delhi which they missed by 5 minutes and then rushed to the next station Haldwani. And boarded their Train for Delhi. We reached Nainital at 9 p.m. and checked into a hotel.

We had a lovely hot water bath and shave after 7 days and then had some good Dinner at the restaurant and had a good night sleep.

The next day we spent in Nainital and left for Delhi by the night train and…. that was the end of our wonderful trek.

The Pindari Glacier trek was very tuff but great fun. Living 8 days in the mountains/forests without proper shelter, toilets, electricity and with lot of leeches around wonder how Lord Rama and Sita spent 14 years in the forest and wondering how Veerappan is still living in forest.

Before I close I would like to thank himadventures teamfor professional services they rendered. The food was good and balanced. .Touch wood the trek was safe and we all were in good health and sprits. I would also like to thank Mr. Neol Ivon Director of Himadventures International Tours and Trades for the immediate response, guidance and planning of the trek.

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